The fair
Since 1929 Alba has given its autumn to the white truffle. It is an eight-week festival, not a single day.
At weekends the old centre closes to cars and becomes one long market: stalls of hazelnuts, cheeses and Langa wines along via Maestra, the trifolao truffle hunters with their dogs, the costumed parades of the town districts and the Palio degli Asini, the donkey race on the first Sunday in October.
The Mercato Mondiale del Tartufo, in the Cortile della Maddalena, is the only ticketed part: inside you can see and buy truffles certified by the judges. Outside, in the streets, the atmosphere and the scents are the same and cost nothing.
Truffle is sold by weight, and dearly: the pleasure of the fair is walking, tasting, listening to the trifolao. A plate with a few shavings turns up in any trattoria too, at village prices.
A weekend’s programme
The pattern repeats every Saturday and Sunday: only the shows and the parades change.
- Saturday · morningThe Mercato Mondiale opensIn the Cortile della Maddalena, from about 9.30. Outside, the stalls in via Maestra and piazza Risorgimento open around 10.
- Saturday · afternoonSensory tastings and cooking showsIn the Palatartufo: how to tell a good truffle, with the judges. Some sessions are open, others need booking.
- Sunday · morningParades and flag-throwersAlba’s districts parade through the centre in medieval costume. On the first Sunday in October comes the Palio degli Asini, the donkey race.
- Sunday · afternoonCellars and squaresTastings in the squares, music, the trifolao and their dogs in piazza Duomo. The market closes around 19.30.
Getting there
Route on Google MapsAlba has no high-speed line: you arrive slowly, and it is better that way.
What to know before you go
Four things the people who live here take for granted.
Entry to the Mercato Mondiale costs a few euros and includes tastings. Everything that happens in the street is free.
Saturday afternoon and Sunday after midday the centre is packed: at 10 on Sunday you catch the parades and browse the stalls in peace.
Many producers take cash only. Hazelnuts, torrone nougat and wine are fairly priced; truffle is sold by the gram.
The real Alba white truffle is priced every week by the Borsa del Tartufo, the truffle exchange. If the price is too low, it is another species.
Around Alba
The Langhe are ten minutes away: UNESCO hills, castles and cellars.
Nearby, on Twip
The fair is free. If you want to go after truffles with a trifolao or step inside a cellar, you book those on Twip.
Frequently asked questions about the fair
The things people ask us before they leave.
How much does it cost to get in?
Nothing for the town and the stalls. Only the Mercato Mondiale, in the Cortile della Maddalena, has a ticket, and it is a few euros.
Which weekend should I choose?
They all have the market. The first Sunday in October brings the Palio degli Asini; in November the truffles are riper and more fragrant.
Can you eat well without spending a fortune?
Yes, two streets from the centre: tajarin and a glass of Dolcetto at village prices. The shaved truffle is charged separately.
Are there trains on Sunday evening?
Yes, but few: check the last connection at Bra before you set off.
Can you visit a wine cellar too?
Yes, many open at weekends. Visits with a tasting are paid for and need booking.
