Since 1963 Marradi has celebrated its Marrone chestnut: you eat, you buy, and you walk through the chestnut woods.
Every Sunday in October the village streets fill with stalls: chestnuts roasted over coals, castagnaccio, marroni cakes, jams and new wine from the Apennines. The village associations roast the chestnuts in perforated pans over wood fires, and you can smell it from the station.
The Marrone del Mugello IGP is a serious business here: large, sweet, with a skin that peels off on its own. You can buy it fresh by the sack from the growers, at prices that don’t exist in the city.
The festival is free and village-sized. The only ticketed part is the historic steam train from Florence or Pistoia, which reaches Marradi in the late morning: book it weeks ahead.
The same every Sunday in October; only the music and the shows change.
The Faentina line is half the journey: tunnels, woods and small stations all the way up to the ridge.



Four things the people who live here take for granted.
Growers charge about half the city price. Cash only.
Seats go within days of sales opening, in September. If you miss it, the regional train is just as lovely.
The chestnut woods above Marradi are half an hour on foot: easy paths, but muddy after rain.
In October, mornings on the ridge are 8 degrees: one extra layer, which you take off once the sun is up.
The Tuscan-Romagnol ridge: stone villages, chestnuts and no crowds.



The festival is free. If you want to pick chestnuts with a grower or step inside a drying house, you book those on Twip.
The things people ask us before they leave.
No. The festival happens in the village streets: you only pay for what you eat or buy.
No: it is a separate initiative, with its own ticket and booking. You can also reach the festival on the regional train.
The second and third Sundays in October have the best marroni. The first is the least crowded.
Very: roast chestnuts, the steam train, a small village. Pushchairs fine, the centre is almost all flat.
It goes ahead anyway: the stalls are under marquees and the chestnut roasters work in any weather.