The walk
The Viandante is the old road that linked Lecco to the Valtellina: 45 km in four legs. This is the finest of them.
From Varenna the path climbs stone steps towards the Castello di Vezio, then runs along the hillside above the lake: olive terraces, dry-stone walls, chapels and the roofs of Perledo. The lake is always below you, and Menaggio and the Grigne peaks stand on the far shore.
Halfway along you drop down to Gittana and then to Regolo, with the Romanesque church of San Martino; the last stretch reaches Bellano from above, looking down on the Orrido and the bell tower. It is about 7 km, 300 metres of climbing and two and a half hours of easy walking.
It is a public path, waymarked with an orange V: you pay nothing. The beauty of the Viandante is that every leg ends at a station, so you travel out and back by train.
The stages
Timings for an average walker, with stops to look at the lake.
- 0:00 · Varenna-EsinoStart at the stationFrom the platform you climb straight up towards the Castello di Vezio: 15 minutes of steps, then the path levels out.
- 0:30 · Castello di VezioThe first viewpointThe castle charges for entry (€4), but the view from the path is free. Drinking fountain here.
- 1:15 · Perledo and GittanaBetween olive groves and stone housesThe gentlest stretch: mule tracks, votive chapels, the lake always below. A bar in Gittana, if it is open.
- 2:00 · RegoloSan MartinoThe lone Romanesque chapel on its knoll: the place for a packed lunch.
- 2:30 · BellanoArriving from aboveYou drop into Bellano between the houses: the station is 5 minutes away, the Orrido 3. Trains to Milan every hour.
Getting there
Route on Google MapsThe Viandante is built around the train: the Milan–Tirano line stops at every leg.
What to know before you go
Four things regular walkers here take for granted.
Stone steps and unpaved stretches, slippery after rain. You do not need boots, but not sandals either.
In summer carry at least a litre: the path is exposed to the afternoon sun.
From Bellano trains to Milan run hourly; the last one around 10pm. Save the timetable before you set off.
July and August are hot and crowded in Varenna; in winter the path is open and almost empty.
Around Varenna and Bellano
The Lecco shore: fewer villas, more real villages.
Nearby, on Twip
The path is free. If you want a family's boat, lunch with a fisherman or the Orrido at night, you book those on Twip.
Frequently asked questions about the path
The things people ask us before they leave.
Do you have to pay for the path?
No, it is a waymarked public right of way. You only pay for the train and, if you want, the Castello di Vezio or the Orrido.
Is it hard?
No: 7 km and 300 m of climbing, almost all of it at the start. You need closed shoes and a bit of breath for the steps up to Vezio.
Can you walk it the other way round?
Yes, from Bellano to Varenna. That way the climb is gentler and Varenna, at the end, is the right place for an ice cream.
With children?
From about 7–8 years old yes, but no pushchairs. The steps at the start are the hardest part.
With a dog?
Yes, on a lead in the villages. Water at the fountains in Vezio and Perledo.